Help With Your Dark Spots and Uneven Skin Tone

By Kathryn Leverette

Of the many skin disorders that affect the darker races, hyperpigmentation (uneven skin tone and dark spots) is the chief complaint. Skin problems, medications and medical conditions can lead to hyperpigmentation, including the aftermath of acne, razor bumps, melasma, chemical irritation, eczema, friction, electrolysis, allergic reactions, overuse of abrasive scrubs, scrubbing one’s skin, using too much pressure, over-applying products (too often, too thick and/or repeated application to irritated skin), certain prescription medications and hormones (ask us about these), dehydration, obesity, thyroid disease, chicken pox, sunburn, waxing, electrolysis, insect bites, picking, wiping the eyes, rubbing, tampering with the skin by any means, trauma, tweezing, surgical procedures, lasers and overzealous microdermabrasion.

Hormonal and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on all races and skin types can be improved dramatically with light skin peels, conservative use of topical alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids in formulations containing   melanin-suppressing skin brighteners, sun avoidance and diligent use of non-clogging, full-spectrum sunblock suited to skin type.
The key to controlling hyperpigmentation includes having a complete medical history, addressing specific lifestyle issues causing the problem, taking the time to instruct the client in the appropriate use (and potential misuse) of corrective products, monitoring usage/over-usage, and sun exposure.

Hormones, pregnancy, unchecked acne flare-ups, sun exposure, allergic reactions, over-scrubbing and/or over use of homecare products, eczema, allergic reactions, and getting inappropriate professional procedures are only a few of the many factors that can make or break any dark spot lightening program. The exact cause of the skin disorder, and the aggravating factors that worsen it, must be addressed in consultation before pigmentation problems can be improved or overcome. If you have acne, razor bumps, "rashy" skin, tamper with your skin, fail to follow instructions, have serious underlying medical problems, take sun-sensitizing medications or are overweight, these issues must be factored in to the plan of action.
Kojic acid dipalmitate, licorice root, bearberry extract, arbutin, mulberry extract, azelaic acid and ascorbic acid are non-irritating ingredients and welcome developments for those allergic to hydroquinone (HQ). Like HQ, they can be combined with glycolic and lactic acid and other pore-penetrating ingredients, including retinoids and dimethyl isosorbide, whose small molecules act as a “vehicle” to the target tissues, deep into the follicles. And, there is a low incidence of adverse reactions, when used exactly as directed.

It is important to discuss past hydroquinone usage and subsequent reactions, sun care products and sun avoidance. Passive sun exposure, like riding in a car, waiting for the bus, working in the sun, gardening and outdoor sports poses the greatest risk. Many people mistakenly feel that they don’t need sun protection for intermittent sun exposure.

Tips for Success

Lose weight. Dark pigmentation is much easier to address if you aren’t overweight. No kidding! Learn the exact cause of your discoloration, including acne, ingrown hairs, over-exposure to the sun, insect bites, picking/scratching, hormones, over-scrubbing or over-applying products, rapid weight gain, friction, medications, health issues, etc.  Address the exact causes of the darkening, no matter what they are. Ingrown hairs, tweezing and picking, shaving irritation, obesity, product misuse and too much sun are examples of what can make one person’s problem more difficult to treat.           <

Avoid the sun, and never skip sunblock. Reapply full-spectrum sunscreen often, and include your neck and hands.

Get your car windows tinted to the legal limit.

Do not try to rush things! If your skin gets irritated, you may be overusing your product (applying it too thick or often).

Get professional treatments every two to four weeks. Exfoliation and brightening procedures boost your efforts.

Get follow-up visits every four weeks and get product potency and lifestyle issues reevaluated regularly.

Get refills before you run out or you may have to start over.

Reapply sunblock often when golfing, doing double days in training camp, running, swimming, outdoor work, etc.

Do not apply scented products on any exposed body parts (Perfume + Sun = Dark Spots)

Wear 100% UV protection sunglasses at all times.

Do not scrub off dead skin cells if you start to peel or flake. Don’t use washcloths, buffing pads or abrasive scrubs.

Follow directions.  Apply your active AHA and retinol-based exfoliants and skin lighteners, creams and other products

a. exactly as directed by your skin care professional
b. in small amounts, massaged well into the skin
c. in the total absence of irritation.
Always apply a scant amount to clean, non-irritated skin, only as often as directed.
Massage product into the skin until all traces are absorbed.  Avoid the entire mouth area and smile lines every other day.
Never ‘dot’ lighteners onto the spots only.
Never apply too often.
Never apply too thick to darker areas of the skin.
This can cause light halos around the spots and irritation and darkening of the spot itself.
Avoid the mouth and other sensitive areas for a few days if they become darkened, too dry or irritated. 

© 1999, 2006 Kathryn Khadija Leverette, Urban Skin Solutions, Inc.