Urban Skin Solutions for acne, razor bumps, dark spots, uneven skin tone, scalp problems and scars.

RACCOON EYES: THE DARK CIRCLE DILEMNA
by Kathryn Khadija Leverette

Facial structure and skin coloration: Bone structure, with prominent cheekbones and deep-set eyes, and light, translucent skin covering a darkish underlying tissue color, will make the orbital eye area appear much darker than the rest of the face. Genetic fat deposits under the eyes can appear in youth and gradually worsen with age. A large amount of under-eye fat can cause severe dark circles, especially just below the fat deposits. Surgical removal of this fat through an incision placed inside the lower eyelid (with no visible scar), is a common procedure that can be performed as early as the late teens or early twenties.

Genetics: Does a parent or other family member also have dark circles? Before you answer, were they smokers? Smoking also causes severe dark circles. Avoiding smoke, using non-drying skin brighteners formulated for the eye area, and wearing UV-protective eyewear will improve the appearance dramatically. In some cases, however, warm-toned, corrective camouflage cover cream may be necessary. Unfortunately, most cover creams tend to look dry, accentuating the appearance of under-eye wrinkles and dehydration. To solve this problem, increase your water intake and always hydrate the under-eye area with a good moisturizer ten minutes before applying cover cream. Blend the cover cream with a small amount of oil-free moisturizer on the back of your hand. Stipple (tap) this mixture gently around the eyes and blend into surrounding areas with the tip of a make-up wedge. Set with a light dusting of micro-milled loose powder. Full-coverage mineral make-up and the appropriate application technique can also camouflage this problem

Lack of sleep: Does one of the following scenarios describe you? Chronic lack of sleep? Longterm sleep disorder? Frequent air travel that includes crossing time zones? Graveyard-shift employment? Interrupted sleep during the day? All of these factors involve physical stress, causing chronic dark under-eye circles and other skin problems, especially acne. A consistent bedtime routine, improved sleep habits and seven uninterrupted hours of sleep will help relieve symptoms. Sleeping too little, then trying to catch up on the weekend, doesn’t work.

Dehydration: Lack of adequate water intake impacts darker skin tones dramatically. Smoking, alcohol, coffee and tea consumption, medications, long hot showers, hard water and indoor heating significantly increase the body’s need to re-hydrate with water. Rule of thumb: Drink enough water to equal about half your weight in ounces. For every dehydrating beverage, drink a lot of extra water. Drink even more water if you take antibiotics, diuretics, antidepressants, meds for allergies, colds, blood pressure, diabetes or sleep, or any medication known to cause dehydration, dry mouth and/or excessive thirst.

Chemical irritation: Topical acne medications like benzoyl peroxide (BPO) can cause temporary darkening when applied too close to the eye area. Acne washes containing BPO, salicylic acid and glycolic acid shouldn’t be rinsed over the eyes. Moisturizers applied to the eye area simultaneously with BPO can cause them to migrate together, drying out the skin in the eye area and diluting its action elsewhere. Overuse and/or thick applications of retinoids and anti-aging eye creams can cause temporary darkening, dryness and itching. Rubbing can prolong the situation. Longterm use of fluorinated steroid creams may lead to darkening and broken capillaries.

Contact dermatitis: Hyperpigmentation accompanied by itching and mild peeling can be caused by frosted eye shadows, contaminated mascara, scented skin care products, contact lens products, product overuse, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids and D&C red dyes. Switch to hypoallergenic matte eye shadows and unscented, non-irritating skin care products. Avoid make-up products that contain red dyes. Replace your mascara every three months and never share. Apply a mild hydrocortisone cream a couple of times a day until the rash and itching disappears.

Wiping and rubbing: Tearing, rubbing, wiping and scratching increases darkening around the eye. Remove eye make-up gently with a non-drying product. Keep potentially-irritating cleansers away from the eyes. Always pat dry and don’t rub. Address your allergies and use caution with contact lenses. Wear UV-protective eyewear, even on overcast days. At night, wear lightly-tinted sunglasses to protect the eyes from debris, dust and pollutants, which can cause tearing and darkening of the eye area.

Contact lenses: Irritation from contact lenses can lead to tearing, rubbing, wiping, and dry eyes. Wiping and rubbing increase the darkening. Wear sunglasses during the day and tinted glasses in the evening because contact lens wearers are more vulnerable to the effects of debris, dust and pollutants in they eye. Replace contacts often, keep them clean, get regular check-ups and consider lasik surgery.

Chronic allergies: Out-of-control allergies cause dark circles, called ‘allergic shiners’ in both adults and children, and tend to run in families. Swelling, tearing, wiping, rubbing, blotting and scratching the orbital eye area contribute dramatically to dark circles. Old school antihistamines cause unpleasant side effects and daytime drowsiness, so allergy sufferers are often inconsistent with treatment. Explore and remove the irritants that trigger your allergies. Control attacks with non-drowsy antihistamines and steroid nasal sprays, which work on swollen nasal tissues without entering the bloodstream. Claritin and the generic versions (loratadine) are over-the-counter and Allegra is now available in generic form (fexofenadine). Daily use of some antihistamines can cause dehydration and sun sensitivity, leading to increased darkening around the eye. Increase your water intake, avoid direct sun, use sunblock and wear protective eyewear religiously.

Obesity and sudden weight gain: Fat cells seem to boost the body’s production of estrogens, which causes the skin to become sensitive to the sun and darken as a result. Sun avoidance and daily use of sunblock and sunglasses are a must. Drugs often associated with obesity including diuretics, oral anti-diabetic drugs, some anti-depressants and blood pressure medications, can dramatically increase photosensitivity. Cutting back on salt and high sodium foods, reducing fats, carbohydrates and sweets, and exercising regularly will help reduce your bodyweight and water retention, and improve your blood pressure, self-esteem and general health.

Sun exposure: Failure to wear sunglasses during even short episodes of sun exposure (including rainy and overcast days) can cause the delicate tissues around the eye to darken dramatically.

Thyroid problems: Modern medicine is doing a better job of diagnosing thyroid problems these days. Darkening in the orbital eye area, constant tearing, puffiness, fluid retention, disturbed sleep cycles and delayed healing are symptoms that often accompany thyroid disease. Rubbing and wiping the eyes can intensify the darkening.

Hormones and pregnancy: All hormonal changes, imbalances and hormone medications cause sun-sensitivity leading to skin discoloration and other problems.

Medications: Hormone replacement, birth control pills, antibiotics, antihistamines, painkillers, diuretics, oral anti-diabetic drugs, Accutane, anti-depressants and blood pressure medications and many other prescription and non-prescription drugs can cause sun sensitivity that can lead to darkening. Some topical preparations, including skin lighteners and retinoids, can also cause severe photosensitivity.

Smoking: If you smoke cigarettes, cigars, clove cigarettes, blunts or weed, and if you are exposed to even small amounts of secondhand smoke, dark circles are a common side effect, especially on darker skin. Only two or three cigarettes a day (or 30 minutes of secondhand smoke) can cause darkening in the eye area. Now you have another good reason to either quit smoking, or put a stop to your exposure to secondhand smoke.

Lighten up: If the orbital eye area is darker than your face, skin brightening ‘cocktails’ are available that contain mild glycolic or lactic acid (fruit acidexfoliants that are also “vehicles” to the deeper tissues), dimethyl isosorbide (a gentle, deep-penetrating vehicle), retinoids (deep-penetrating vitamin A derivatives), hydroquinone (the only FDA-approved skin lightener, rarely used in eye creams), l-ascorbate (stable, absorbable vitamin C, which firms and brightens the skin), and the following melanin-suppressing brighteners: kojic acid dipalmitate, azelaic acid, vitamin K, mulberry, bearberry and licorice root extracts, l-arbutin, mandelic acid and citrus extracts.

These specialty products, formulated for the orbital eye area, contain just enough fruit acid and/or retinoid to help active melanin-suppressing brighteners penetrate better. They also gently exfoliate and repair delicate under-eye skin, which helps reduce fine lines and improve elasticity and texture. Ceramides and other moisture-building factors hydrate delicate eye-area skin, which lacks sebaceous (oil-producing) activity and tends to dry out first.

You must gradually wean the skin onto active eye care products, using caution to apply very sparingly and rub in well until all traces of the product have vanished into the skin. Follow directions and then use even less. More is definitely not better and may cause temporary darkening of the epidermal cells, a dry, parched appearance and peeling accompanied by itching and redness. Start out every second or third night if you aren’t using benzoyl peroxide (BPO). Practice sun avoidance when possible, apply full-spectrum sunscreen and wear UV-protective sunglasses.