Urban Skin Solutions for acne, razor bumps, dark spots, uneven skin tone, scalp problems and scars.

Are You Practicing Safe Sun?

By Kathryn Khadija Leverette

Dark skin has become just as vulnerable as lighter skin to the “ravages” of sun, including sunburn, facial laxity (sagging), wrinkling, hyperpigmentation (uneven skin tone and dark spots), hormonal pigmentation (melasma), keratoses (pre-cancers) and malignancies (skin cancers). Often, people of color say: “I’m not trying to get darker” or “I never burn.” Intermittent day-to-day sun exposure darkens skin tone and dark spots the most because it is less obvious and cumulative.

As the earth’s ozone layer diminishes, people of all skin tones must protect their skin every time they’re exposed to sun. Casual sun exposure, like riding a bus, driving a car, jogging, walking or gardening, is the most damaging sun. When going outside, even for a short time, full-spectrum sun protection is needed on all exposed skin. Sun protection is necessary at all times, even on darker skin, to protect that skin tone.

Reapply often when exposed to direct sunlight (even on overcast days), and after swimming, exercising or perspiring, even if the product is labeled as being waterproof or water-resistant. Products claim to be waterproof, but under extreme conditions, they don’t last. In the near future, sun protection products will have to withstand 80 minutes of constant water to be rated “water resistant”. Remember, it’s better to be safe than “uneven-toned.”

To absorb enough to be effective, chemical sunscreens must be applied no less than 20 minutes before sun exposure to all uncovered areas of the body. Don’t neglect the orbital eye area, backs of the hands, forearms or neck, as these areas darken quickly, especially on the "driver side." Wear fleece-lined latex gloves for dishwashing and other household chores to avoid irritation. Failure to do so can result in hyperpigmentation on the backs of the hands (caused by chemical irritation), dramatically worsened while driving with the sun beating through the glass onto chemically-irritated hands gripping the steering wheel.

Make-up products that contain sunscreens usually provide too little UV protection. Most contain a minimal amount of the sunscreening ingredients because higher SPFs dilute coverage. Most are not full-spectrum and block only the UVB “burning” rays. You definitely need full-spectrum sunblocking agents (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, Parsol 1789®) to protect against the UVA “browning” rays. Many make-up products containing zinc or titanium dioxide also contain lipids (oil), even if the zinc oxide or titanium dioxide has been thoroughly micronized. The exceptions are camouflage cover creams and mineral powder make-up products, used to hide skin abnormalities, which contain titanium dioxide and dense pigment. These can be used for extra coverage; they physically block UVA and UVB rays, and when applied correctly, are usually waterproof and sweatproof. Warning: Practice in natural daylight. Use a light touch, and blend carefully into the neck, temples, etc. for a more natural look.

Urban Skin Solutions offers a wide selection of excellent professional suncare products and make-up cover products (which are greaseless and don’t aggravate acne). Many OTC sunscreens contain ingredients that can cause stinging, sensitivity and allergic reactions on sensitive skin, especially around the eyes. Physical Sunblocks: Micronized sheer titanium dioxide or zinc oxide sunblock in oil-free, non-comedogenic bases. Advantages: Effective immediately (don’t require the 20 wait that chemical sunscreens need to penetrate the skin. Drawback: Some products must be rubbed into the skin with the heel of the hand until fully absorbed or a “whitish" appearance may result, especially on darker skin. This takes an extra minute, at most. Urban Skin Solutions carries sheer “natural” sunscreen gels (with micronized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) that can be easily applied without leaving a cloudy haze.

Sunblock must be "user-friendly" and prescribed according to one’s personal preferences, skin sensitivity and skin type, lifestyle (always in a rush?) and product comedogenicity (the potential to aggravate acne). Many over-the-counter sunscreens are greasy and contain tropical oils (palm oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, etc) which can clog the pores, and don’t encourage daily compliance because of the greasy shine. Oily-skinned folks should use water, aloe vera and/or water and alcohol-based formulations. People with extremely sensitive skin should stick to micronized zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide products, which are now available in light oil-free gels, or can be custom-tinted to blend with darker skin tones. High levels of sunscreening chemicals can be irritating, especially in the eye area, especially if topical or systemic retinoid (vitamin A product like Retin A®, Differin Gel® or Accutane®). Sun protection factors (SPF) indicate protection against the shorter UVB “burning” rays only, unless they are labeled “full-spectrum”. New full-spectrum products contain zinc oxide (sometimes called Z-cote®), titanium dioxide and/or avobenzone (Parsol 1789®) in the right concentrations.

The eyes and orbital eye area should always be covered by 100% UV-protective sunglasses when outdoors for any length of time. These days, most sunglasses provide enough UV protection. Glasses and sunglasses can be coated for UV-protection at an optometrist's office. Prescription glasses can be order in a “transition” material that darkens when one goes into the sun.

Skin lighteners: If hands, face and other areas are darker than the rest of the body from everyday sun, or brown spots or dark patches are visible, skin lighteners are available that contain glycolic or lactic acid (exfoliants that also act as “vehicles” to the deeper target tissues), dimethyl isosorbide (a deep-penetrating vehicle), vitamin A (retinoids including Retin A, Avita, Renova, tretinoin and vitamin A propionate that exfoliate and help skin lightening ingredients penetrate), hydroquinone (the only FDA-approved skin lightener), (a mushroom derivative from Japan), (derived from milk solids that helps fight dark spots and acne highly effectivebotanical brightening ingredients including kojic acid dipalmitate,
l-arbutin, azelaic acid, mandelic acid, mulberry extract, bearberry extract, phytic acid, l-ascorbate, licorice root extract, vitamin K, citrus fruit extracts.

Patch Test: If you haven’t used "fade creams" or “skin lightening” products (hydroquinone) in the past, do a three-day patch test (use a scant amount and rub thoroughly into the skin) on the “non-driver side” side of the neck and the inside of the elbow to test for allergy and/or sensitivity. After the three-day test, apply the appropriate lightener very sparingly to the entire affected area as directed on non-irritated skin.

Always apply a thin coat exactly as directed and rub in until it all traces disappear. More is not better! Never "dot" lighteners in a thicker coat onto dark spots. This causes stinging, peeling, scabbing and darker, larger lesions with lighter "halos" surrounding the original spots.

Warning: Pregnancy, oral antibiotics (especially tetracycline, Minocin®, doxycycline and sulfa drugs), blood pressure meds, diuretics, oral anti-diabetic drugs, hormone replacement, oral contraceptives, Norplant®, Depo-Provera®, Accutane® (even if it was discontinued years ago!), Retin A®, Differin Gel®, other topical and systemic vitamin A products, antihistamines, ibuprofen (Motrin® and Advil®), chemical peeling, dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing, dehydration and certain medical conditions (kidney disease, thyroid disease, obesity or sudden weight gain, hormonal imbalances, pregnancy, auto-immune disorders like schleroderma, vitiligo, and lupus, high blood pressure and allergies), product overuse, skin tampering and over-scrubbing can cause sun-sensitivity on virtually anyone. This sensitivity leads to a worsening of pigmentation problems, especially on people of color. Only five minutes in the sun for you can equal two hours in the same sun for someone else! So, avoid unnecessary sun and reapply potent full-spectrum sunblock hourly, even on cloudy or overcast days.