By Kathryn Leverette

The debate has always been heated among skin care specialists and dermatologists as to the risks and benefits of scrubbing one's countenance and body parts. The dangers of creating microscopic tears in the skin are very real, especially if a scrub contains granules with irregular edges, like crushed walnut shells or apricot pits, or if too much pressure is used with any method of exfoliation, including alcohol, witch hazel or astringent with cotton and microdermabrasion.

Washcloths vs. Scrubs vs. Astringent/Cotton vs. Buffing Pads: There are pitfalls to every method of "epidermabrasion" and skin tampering, especially on skin Black, thin, post-operative or sensitive skin.

Who's at Risk: Sensitive and thin-skinned individuals, People of Color, post-operative skin (laser, deep dermabrasion and medical peels) and those using Magic Shave or other hair removal chemicals, Retin-A, Accutane, benzoyl peroxide, BHA (salicylic acid), glycolic acid and other AHAs and sun-sensitive skin. Because many active ingredients, medical procedures and professional treatments can cause superficial flaking and/or peeling, the temptation to speed up the process by scouring off their dead skin cells can be irresistible.

Abrading and tampering with the skin manually (scrubs, buffing pads, rubbing with a washcloth or towel, rubbing, picking, scratching, patting, using alcohol and cotton, scraping the skin while shaving, being shaved or removing shaving powders, microdermabrasion, “dermaplaning” with a blade, and/or using too much pressure for any reason) can “over-process” the skin. This allows "active" home and professional products and UV rays to penetrate into irritated skin, worsening the inflammation, which can turn mild flaking into excessive scaling and prolonged irritation which “activates” the melanocytes in the basal layer of the skin (the cells that provide your natural coloration). This situation incites a dramatic increase in pigmentation problems, especially if exposed to sunlight, rubbing, scrubbing, picking, or product overuse. Repeated manipulation, friction and skin tampering can slow down the healing process, introduce bacteria, incite secondary infection, and cause epidermal cells on and around blemishes to thicken, darken, and get larger as the body struggles to defend itself from the constant assault.

Unwelcome Results: Side effects include temporary redness, burning, excessive and prolonged scaling, increased sun-sensitivity, a thick build-up dead skin cells, severe pigmentation problems and an uneven skin tone, especially on the neck and cheeks. Symptoms can last anywhere from a few days to several months.

Warning to People of Color: Abrasion caused by overzealous manual exfoliation (scrubbing too often, scraping the skin, using too much pressure, picking, scratching, skin tampering, rubbing with a towel) by any means or method, exposure to sun and lack of adequate water intake (dehydration), can leave unsightly and hard-to-remove hyperpigmentation in its wake, especially on the neck. You can’t scrub the “black” off your neck, or someone else’s neck! And, you can’t scrub, scrape or pick off thickened dead skin cells. They just get worse.

Better Yet: Use your products exactly as directed. To combat flaking, try sulfur mask (mild, non-mechanical exfoliant that will “passively” dissolve dead skin cells. Apply a generous coat and allow it to remain on the skin for up to 10 minutes, without letting the mask dry out. It should be showered or rinsed off with warm water and gentle pressure from fingertips only. Ask us about other methods to help remove dead skin cells without trauma.

Safer Scrubs: Scrubs containing finely-ground meal (like cornmeal), papaya enzyme creams, man-made jojoba beads, fine polyethylene granules, soaps containing powdered exfoliants, and tiny marble spheres have a smooth, uniform surface, won't tear delicate skin. However, overuse and/or applying too much pressure with the gentlest exfoliant can still cause problems!

Experienced skin care professionals can perform lactic acid peels or gentle enzymes formulated for sensitive skin if you need to exfoliate. Gentle exfoliants designed for home use on sensitive skin are safe bets and can safely boost skin-smoothing results if used as directed.